Minox 35 EL vs. GT vs. ML vs. GT-E - the Ultimate Guide

The Minox 35 is the smallest full-frame 35mm camera of its time: compact Makrolon housing, around 190 g. Different batteries are needed depending on the model – for some variants the original cell is no longer available. This guide explains which model fits and how to keep the camera alive.

Those who know me know: the Minox 35 is one of my absolute favorite cameras. At Ausgeknipst we design parts for dozens of camera systems. But to be honest, there is one camera I always put in my pocket when I’m out privately. It’s not a Leica or a Nikon. It’s my worn-out Minox 35 GT (right in the picture).

Why? Because it is engineering art in pocket format. In 1974 Minox (previously known for spy cameras) shocked the photo world: a full-frame 35mm camera smaller than many half-frame cameras and weighing just about 190g, almost half as heavy and noticeably flatter in the pocket than the already very popular Rollei 35 at the time. The great thing about the Minox 35 compared to the more popular Rollei 35 is: the lens retracts behind a flap when the camera is not in use, protecting it in the pocket, and because the housing is made of glass-fiber reinforced Makrolon, it weighs almost nothing.

But: The Minox 35 could only be so small because it contains a lot of electronics for its time, which unfortunately also makes it quite prone to faults. Of the 100+ Minox 35 cameras that have passed through my hands since Ausgeknipst was founded, probably about 50% were broken (about 30% we could repair, usually only the shutter magnet needs cleaning).

But that comes later, first you have to decide on one and this guide is meant to help you find the right model and keep it alive.

Part 1: The Minox family tree (Which one should I buy?)

There are countless variants, but we can roughly divide them into three families. Here is the overview so you can find your way through the jungle of names.

1. The classics (EL, GL, GT, PL)

These are the models with the typical sloping top housing and the pointer in the viewfinder.

Minox 35 EL (1974): The original. Aperture priority (you choose aperture, camera chooses shutter speed). Historically important, but still technically raw (no backlight switch, no self-timer).

Minox 35 GL (1979): The update. Got a backlight switch ("2x") that doubles the exposure. Important feature!

Minox 35 GT (1981): The bestseller and my personal favorite. Has everything the GL has, plus a self-timer. The lens is the legendary Color-Minotar 35mm f/2.8. Sharp, high contrast, full of character.

Minox 35 PL (1982): The "Program" version. Fully automatic for people who don’t want to think about apertures. Good for snapshots but less creative control.

Warning about power supply: These models originally ran on the mercury battery PX27 (5.6V). It is no longer available.

The solution: The Minox electronics work with a bridge circuit and are therefore relatively voltage tolerant. The modern 6V from four LR44 or SR44 button cells are electrically no problem. The essential part is the battery adapter (sleeve). The button cells are too small and without an adapter would not make contact and cause a short circuit. Our PX27 adapter takes the modern button cells, connects them correctly, and ensures your Minox reliably gets power again. Alternatively, you can use the more expensive Golden Power PX27, which has less capacity than the solution with four button cells and is often only available in specialty stores.

All info about batteries and manuals can be found here: Minox 35 Battery & Manual Overview

2. The "Automatic" Ones (ML, MB)

From 1985, the design became a bit more angular ("brick shape").

Minox 35 ML: For many, the best model. It offers program automation AND shutter priority. Instead of a needle, there are LEDs in the viewfinder. It also has an "Exposure Lock" (meter memory) – extremely useful in difficult lighting.

Minox 35 MB: Basically an ML, but without program automation. Only shutter priority.

Advantage of this series: They use the PX28 battery (6V) from the factory. Since this is harder to find nowadays than standard button cells, you need our PX28 adapter. This passive adapter acts as a sleeve to use four individual, inexpensive LR44 or SR44 button cells.

3. The Modern Ones (GT-E, GT-S, MDC)

At the end of the 80s, there was an update under the hood. The lens was now called "MC Minoxar" (multi-coated) and often had a built-in skylight filter.

Minox 35 GT-E (1988): Technically very advanced. Close focusing distance reduced to 70cm (instead of 90cm). More robust internal components (the GT-S is a modified GT-E with automatic DX code recognition).

Minox 35 MDC: The luxury version of the ML with a titanium-anodized aluminum body. More for the display case, but beautiful (also available as a collector’s edition in gold-plated (see cover image).

Battery note: The models GT-E and GT-S have a modified battery compartment and use two CR 1/3 N lithium batteries from the factory (3V each = 6V). No adapter is needed here. The MDC (as an ML derivative) uses the PX28 and requires our PX28 adapter.

Part 2: Buying advice – The Minox ailments

If you see a used Minox 35 at a flea market or on eBay, you have to check two things. Otherwise, you’re buying electronic junk.

The "click" test (shutter)

The biggest problem with the Minox 35 is the shutter. If the camera sits unused for a long time, the magnets gum up or the electronics give out.

The test: Insert battery, cock film advance, press shutter release. You hear a "click." But: Open the back and look through the lens against the light. Do the blades really open? Often it clicks (the release magnet), but the shutter stays closed. We used to repair this often, but it’s fiddly.

DIY tip: For the technically inclined who want to try cleaning the shutter magnet themselves, here’s the link to the video tutorial right here: YouTube video: Cleaning the shutter magnet.

The ISO dial of death

On many GTs and GLs, the ISO dial markings on the bottom have simply worn off. You no longer know if you set ISO 100 or 400. It’s annoying but not a total loss.

The solution: We make a replacement plaque for the ISO dial, where the numbers are engraved, not just printed. Stick it on once, and you’re done.

The lost battery cover

Classic. These things are tiny and missing in 30% of used cameras. No cover means no circuit. No circuit means no shutter release. If yours is missing: We have replacement covers in our range, printed from conductive filament to ensure electrical contact.

 

Important operating instructions

Three details every Minox newbie must know before thinking their camera is broken:

• Double stroke film advance: The film advance lever on the Minox 35 must be operated twice to fully cock the shutter. After only one stroke, the camera won’t fire. This is not a defect but a design principle.
• Front cover = main switch: The electronics only get power when the front cover is 100% opened and locked. At 99%, the camera won’t fire. Make sure to open it until it clearly clicks into place.
• SR44 instead of LR44: If you use one of our adapters with button cells, be sure to use SR44 (silver oxide) instead of LR44 (alkaline). Alkaline cells continuously lose voltage, which eventually leads to exposure errors on the Minox due to lack of real voltage regulation. SR44 cells keep the voltage constant at 1.55V until the end.

Part 3: How to take better pictures (Zone Focus!)

The Minox 35 is not a point & shoot with autofocus (except the ugly late AF models we don’t talk about here). It has zone focus.

You have to estimate the distance. Sounds scary? It’s not.

• At aperture 8 and set to 3 meters, almost everything from 2m to 5m is sharp.
• For landscapes: infinity.
• For street: aperture 8, pre-focus at 3 meters ("snap focus") and just shoot when the subject is in the zone.

Since the shutter is almost silent, the Minox is the ultimate ninja camera for street photography.

Our conclusion & Vladi’s recommendation

Is a Minox 35 still needed today? Yes. There are hardly any cameras that deliver so much image quality per cubic centimeter. My best photos were taken with the Minox 35 GT, simply because I always had it with me when the big SLR was too heavy.

My recommendation for buyers:

Best value for money: The Minox 35 GT. Best balance of features and availability.

The pro tip (upgrades): The Minox 35 GT-E or the MDC. The GT-E offers the best optical and technical upgrades (MC lens, 0.7m minimum focusing distance). The MDC is the only one with a titanium-anodized aluminum body – an indestructible collector’s item (but expensive!). The ML does have LEDs in the viewfinder but is not necessarily better in quality than a well-preserved GT.

If you need accessories to get your flea market find back in shape, feel free to visit our shop. We specialize in keeping these legends alive.

Good light! Your Vladi

Useful links from the article:

• PX27 battery adapter (for EL, GL, GT, PL)
• PX28 adapter (for ML, MB, MDC)
• ISO dial replacement label
• Replacement battery cover
• Filter adapter (to use filters)
• Lens hood